Sunday, May 24, 2009

Select Readings on Saris and Handlooms of India

Following is a list of select literature that many would find useful for their research on hand woven saris and handloom-handicrafts traditions of India. I found this resource useful during my own research and design work on Saris and handloom traditions of India and I am happy to share it here. Happy Reading!

Agarwal, A. and Damodaran, V., Handloom Textiles of Vidharbha: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1996.
Ahluwalia, D., Chirayil, A., Nair, S., Pawar, D., Bakshi, D. and Kothari, T., Textiles of Andhra Pradesh: Craft Documentation. Vol. 1 – 3. Ahmedabad: NID, 1992.
Annapurna, M., ‘Transitioning Markets.’ Economic and Political Weekly. Aug. 2006.
Bakshi, D. and Kothari, T., Textiles of Andhra Pradesh: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1992.
Barnard, Nicholas, Arts and Crafts of India. London Conran: Octopus, 1993.
Barnard, Nicholas and Gillow, John, Traditional Indian Textiles. London: Thames & Hudson, 2002.
Bhandani, Vandana, Textiles and Crafts of India. New Delhi: Prakash Books, 2002.
Bhardwaj, Arvind, Documentation of the Patola Loom: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1987.
Biswas, A., Indian Costumes. New Delhi: Publications Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Govt. of India, 1985.
Boulanger, Chantal, Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping. New York: Shakti Press, 1997.
Buhler, Alfred, Indian Tie-Dyed Fabrics. Ahmedabad: Calico Museum, 1980.
Burnard, Joyce, Chintz and Cotton: India’s Textile Gift to the World. Kenthurst: Kangaroo Press, 1994.
Cable, Vincent, Weston Ann and Jain, L. C., The Commerce of Culture. New Delhi: Lancer International, 1986.
Chandra, Pallab, Tangail Saris of Bengal: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1981.
Chawda, M. and Kamalesh, T., Leizang Bai Tana: The Tribal Weaving of Chota Nagpur: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 2005.
Chawda, M., Design Development for the Barpalli Handloom Cluster: Diploma Project. Ahmedabad: NID, 2007.
Chisti, Rta Kapur and Sanya, Amba, Madhya Pradesh: Saris of India. Ed. Martand Singh. New Delhi: Amr Vastra Kosh, 1989.
Chisti, Rta Kapur and Jain, Rahul, Handcrafted Indian Textiles: Traditions and Beyond. Ed. Martand Singh. New Delhi: Roli Books, 2000.
Chowdhury, A. K. and Khera, M., The Craft Documentation of the Woven Sarees of Maheshwar. Ahmedabad: NID, 1997.
Consumer Purchases of Textiles – 2000, Part II. New Delhi: Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, 2001.
Cox, Arthur F., A Manual of the North Arcot District in the Presidency of Madras. Government of Tamilnadu, 1998.
Dandapat, D. K., Sambalpuri Sarees: Ikat Textiles from Sambalpuri, Bargarh, Barpali and Sonepur Region of Orissa: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1998.
Das, Rudranil, A Craft Documentation on Dhonekali Sari. Ahmedabad: NID, 2002.
Desai, S., Jagdale, B., Narula, V. and Prajapati, H., Cotton Sarees of Bijapur & Dharwad: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1985.
Devi, Pria, The Masters Weavers. Mumbai: Tata Press, 1982.
Dhamija, Ram, Sixty Years of Writing on Arts & Crafts in India (from Roopa-lekha 1928-1988). New Delhi: Sterling Publishers, 1988.
Dharmaraju, P, ’Angara and Koyyalagudem – Marketing in Handloom Cooperatives.’ Economic and Political Weekly. Aug. 2006.
Farooqui, Chinar, Chanderi: Design Directions for Handloom Weavers: Diploma Project. Ahmedabad: NID, 2005.
Garg, Vandana, A Craft Documentation of Kota Doria Fabrics. Ahmedabad: NID, 1992.
Gude, Venkata Ramana, Jamdani Saris of Venkatagiri: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1995.
Handicrafts India Year Book. 4th ed. New Delhi: Handicrafts India, 1990.
Jain, A., Guptey, A., Patel, N. and Agnihotri, S., Chanderi - A Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 2004.
Jain, Abhilasha and Das, Purvi, Maheshwar in Transit: A Craft Documentation of Woven Fabrics. Ahmedabad: NID, 2004.
Jain, Abhishek, Makhamal: Revival of Hand Weaving of Silk Velvets in India: Diploma Project. Ahmedabad: NID, 2007.
Janah, Sunil, The Tribals of India: Through the Lens of Sunil Janah, Oxford University Press, New Delhi, 2003.
Jawdekar, M., Khatbamna, K., Mandal, A., Nath, M., Patel, J. and Sharma, S., Eri-Culture and Textiles: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 2003.
Jhala, Uma De, Brocades of Ahmedabad: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1981.
Journal of Indian Textile History. 2nd ed. Ahmedabad: Calico Museum of Textiles, 1996.
Abhilasha, K, and Das, Purvi, Maheshwar in Transit: Documentation on Woven Fabrics. Ahmedabad: NID, 2004.
Katiyar, Vijai Singh, 'Indian Saris: Traditions - Perpectives - Design.' New Delhi: Wisdom Tree and NID, 2009.
Katiyar, Vijai Singh, ‘Home Textile Exports: Design Issues, Challenges and Opportunities.’ 7th Asian Textile Conference. The Textile Association. New Delhi. Dec. 2003
Katiyar, Vijai Singh, ’Innovation in Textiles: Emerging Indian Design Approaches.’ 2nd International Textile Conference. The North India Section of Textile Institute. New Delhi. Dec. 2004.
Katiyar, Vijai Singh, Need Assessment Survey Reports on Handloom Industry in Arni, Coimbatore, Rasipuram, Trichy, Thirubhuvanam, Kanchipuram and Vilandai Devangar. Ahmedabad: NID, 2004-07.
Koppar, D. H., Tribal Art of Dangs. Baroda: Department of Museums, 1971.
Krishna, Nanditha, Arts and Crafts of Tamil Nadu. Ahmedabad: Mapin Publishing, 1992.
Lynton, Linda, The Sari: Styles-Patterns-History-Techniques. London: Thames & Hudson, 1995.
Mathur, Nikhil, `Rehwa Maheshwari Handloom Weavers.’ Economic and Political Weekly. Aug. 2006.
Mehra, Priya R., Kumar, Tushar and Bannerji, Nivedita, West Bengal & Bihar: Saris of India. Comp. and ed. Rta Kapur Chisti. Ed. Martand Singh. New Delhi: Amr Vastra Kosh, 1995.
Mehta, Rustam J., The Handicrafts and Industrial Arts of India. Bombay: Taraporevala’s, 1960.
Mehta, Rustam J., Masterpieces of the Female Form in Indian Art. Bombay: Taraporevala’s, 1972.
Michael, R., and Parikh, M., Documentation of Jala Weaving techniques of Benares. Ahmedabad: NID, 1986.
Mookherjee, Ajit, Banaras Brocades. New Delhi: Crafts Museum.
Moti, Chandra and Doshi, Saryu, Treasures of Indian Textiles Calico Museum. New Delhi: Marg Publications, 1980.
Mulk, Raj, Textiles and Embroideries of India. New Delhi: Marg Publications, 1965.
Nayar, Shubhra, The Chettinad Saris - An Exploration: Diploma Project. Ahmedabad: NID, 2007.
Patel, Shefali, Sarees of Gadwal: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1982.
Phagre, Shruti, Jhini Bini - A New Direction for Maheshwari Handlooms: Diploma Project. Ahmedabad: NID, 2004.
Ramani, Shakuntala, Sari: The Kalakshetra Tradition. Chennai: Kalakshetra Foundation, 2002.
Riazuddin, Akhtar, History of Handicrafts: Pakistan-India. Islamabad: National Hijra Council.
Roy, Jasmine, DWIJA - Revisiting Jamdani Textiles: Diploma Project. Ahmedabad: NID, 2002.
Roy, Tina, Bomkai - Silk Saris from Western Orissa: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 2000.
Saraf, D. N., In the Journey of Craft Development 1941-1991. New Delhi: Sampark Publications Division, 1991.
Seemanthini, N., Annapurna, M., Syamasundari, B., Latha, T. and Uzramma, ’Marketing Handlooms.’ Economic and Political Weekly. Aug. 2006.
Shah, Shailaja, The Paithani Sari: Craft Documentation, Maharashtra. Ahmedabad: NID, 1997.
Singh, Gurdev, Non-Farm Rural Products: Marketing and Financing. New Delhi: Oxford & IBH, 1994.
Singh, Reena, Benaras Brocades: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1980.
Sisodia, Anuja Kumar, Baiga Saris of Dindori - Woven by the Panika: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 2006.
Somashekharan, Smitha, Neriyath Mundu Weaving of Kerala: Craft Documentation. Ahmedabad: NID, 1992.
Swarup, Shanti, 5000 Years of Arts and Crafts in India and Pakistan. Bombay: Taraporevala’s, 1968.
`The Tamil Nadu Tribes‘. Bulletin of the Madras Govt. Museum. 16.3 (2006).
Tantavi - A Breakthrough in Handloom Fabrics. New Delhi: NCTD, Ministry of Textiles.
The Timechart History of India. U.K.: Robert Federick Ltd., 2005.
Tripathi, Dwijendra and Jumani Jyoti, The Concise Oxford History of Indian Business. New Delhi: Oxford, 2007.
Watson, John Forbes, The Textile Manufacturers and the Costumes of the People of India. Varanasi: Indological Book House, 1982.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Comments from Prof P B Jhala

Prof P B Jhala is a technocrat serving as advisor, Plasma-Textile Applications at Institute for Plasma Research (IPR), Gandhinagar. He is also the last incumbant of John Bistel Research Chair in the area of Textile Design and Technology. The chair was set-up with the endowment support from the Ford Foundation. Application of plasma on handloom silk saris to impart better functional and performance characteristics to the fabric was one of the key reseach area of the chair.

Friday, May 15, 2009

S. M. Kulkarni on 'Indian Saris: Traditions - Perspectives - Design'

S M Kulkarni is a designpreneur and the director of Design Quest, a Delhi based company dealing with high quality textiles and accessories. As a textile designer himself, he has over twenty five years of experience with Indian handlooms & handicrafts and the international markets. His views on the book are hereunder,

Monday, May 11, 2009

Endorsement by Dr Eiluned Edwards

Originally trained as a designer, Eiluned Mair Edwards now does research in design history and material culture, specialising in textiles, dress and craft production with a regional focus of South Asia. Her current research includes contemporary production of block-printed textiles and the use of natural dyes; dress and identity; the developmental role of state agencies and non-governmental organisations working in the craft and design sector in India; and the role of craft and embroidery in women’s development in India. She is currently writing a book on Gujarati textiles and dress.

Her thesis, “The Desert and the Sewn: Textiles and Dress of the Rabari of Kachchh,” secured her a PhD in Art History and Archaeology from Manchester University. She even holds a Postgraduate Certificate of Education in Design and Technology from Nottingham Trent University. She has also done her MA in Textiles from Manchester Metropolitan University, and her BA (Hons) in Textile Design, from Nottingham Trent University.

At present she is working at Victoria and Albert Museum/ London College of Fashion as a Joint Senior Research Fellow in Textiles and Dress. She is also a Consultant for a forthcoming exhibition on the sari (2010) at Textiles Research Centre, Leiden, The Netherlands. She has had the experience of working in De Montfort University, Leicester, as a Research Fellow in Textiles and Dress and as a Tutor of MA South Asian Arts; at Shrujan Trust, Gujarat, India, as a consultant on the development of the archive at the Embroidery Centre in Bhujodi Village, Gujarat; at Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India as a Research assistant on project to establish the Embroidery Gallery; and as a Freelance designer specialising in wall-hung textiles. She has also worked as a visiting lecturer (in Textiles, Design History and Cultural Studies) at Manchester Metropolitan University, Nottingham Trent University, John Moores University, Lincoln College of Art and Design, Farnham College of Art and Design.

Eiluned has made several literary contributions to publications. These contributions included ‘The Role of Veilcloths among the Rabaris of Kutch, Gujarat, Western India,’ Costume, vol. 43 (2009); ‘Hair, Devotion and Trade in India,’ Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion, (2008); ‘Cloth and Community: The Local Trade in Resist-dyed and Block-printed Textiles in Kachchh District, Gujarat,’ in Textile History; ‘Patterns of Adaptation among Pastoral Nomads in Gujarat,’ South Asian Studies, vol. 21 (2005); ‘Marriage and Dowry Customs of the Rabari of Kachchh,’ Wedding Dress Across Cultures, (2003); and ‘Textiles and Dress of the Rabari of Kachchh,’ Ars Textrina, vol. 33 (2001), to name a few.

One of her forthcoming publications is, ‘Pattern, People and Place: Printed and Dyed Textiles of Kachchh, Gujarat,’ Traditional Arts of South Asia: Past Practice, Living Traditions (2009). Other works - ‘The Work of the Khatris of Kachchh: Ajrakh and Block-printed Textiles,’ (2009), Traditional Arts of South Asia: Past Practice, Living Traditions; and Review of ‘The Grace of Four Moons,’ Fashion Theory, vol. 13, (2009), ‘Textiles and Dress among the Rabari of Kutch,’ (2010), and The Idea of Gujarat - co-authored with Ismail Mohammad Khatri, are also in the pipeline.

Comments on 'Indian Saris: Traditions - Perspectives - Design' by Eiluned Edwards

Thursday, May 7, 2009

'Indian Saris' at London Book Fair 2009

A view of the India pavallion at London Book Fair 2009. India was the theme country this year. Our experience was enriching and rewarding in many ways with so many publishers and the range of subjects & titles that were on offer. Even to know the significant size and profile of Indian publishing industry was satisfying. The industry has a tall standing due to its reach and contributions being made to the world. Indian publishing has come a long way now. The industry leaders produce the quality that is no less compared to the best. Spread of latest technology in printing and specialisations is wide and contributing to the growth and recognisition of publishing from India.

We are happy that the Wisdom Tree has made no compromises on quality in producing 'Indian Saris: Traditions - Perspectives - Design'. I have been witnessing many developmental efforts where Shobit Arya, the publisher left no stone unturned to make sure that the book is produced meeting best of standards and parameters. As a result, the book gains a wide recognition today -- not only from international distributors but also from peers in the Indian publishing industry.

Visitors to Wisdom Tree at LBF09 took avid interest in the publication on Indian Saris. Their engrossed scrutiny has been very encouraging to the National Institute of Design, the co-publisher of the book. Indeed a good motivation to all of us involved in realising this publication.

Our experience at LBF09 was amply supplimented by the techocommercial inputs by Shobit Arya -- adding wider view of the world publishing industry; its structure, approaches and new aspirations. The insights must amply aid our future endevors in design research & publishing from India.

Monday, May 4, 2009

Comments from the Chief guest

Left: The Baroness with Shobit Arya, the publisher - Wisdom Tree

Our chief guest, Lady Flather's fondness for the Indian saris aptly reflects through her engaging speech and the remarks on the publication, 'Indian Saris: Traditions - Perspectives - Design'. Shared hereunder are her comments she kindly wrote soon after the event.

Coinciding with the book launch, a poster exhibition of some of recent achievements of NID was also put up at The Nehru Centre. The exhibition was retained by the Centre through the London Book Fair '09.
A part view of the guests and delegates at the event.